Meet the low-profile founder of Paris’ iconic Collette boutique – who is finally embracing the limelight
6 mins read

Meet the low-profile founder of Paris’ iconic Collette boutique – who is finally embracing the limelight

Sarah Andelman. It’s hard to describe her to someone who doesn’t already know her name. Those who do know her as someone recognized throughout the fashion and art worlds for her impeccable taste. Yet Andelman has spent more than 10 years avoiding the limelight, despite naming Chanel, Hermès and Pharrell Williams among her many collaborators. When she started her agency, Just An Idea, in 2018, she told brands that her role was behind the scenes rather than as the face of a project. But “over the years,” she says, “I understood that brands wanted to involve me, to name me, so I became a little more indifferent.” Now she is finally stepping into the limelight.

Sarah Andelman and Pharrell Williams. Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Andelman
Sarah Andelman and Pharrell Williams. Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Andelman
Recently, it seems that the latest collab comes right on the heels of another in a whirlwind of releases that no one can keep straight – and if anyone says they can, they’re probably lying. Colette, Andelman’s first concept store in Pariswhich served as a springboard for much of her current work, is still referred to today by those in the know as the blueprint for both collaborative projects and exciting retail spaces. Although Andelman is a pioneer when it comes to bringing brands together, she agrees that the practice looks quite different today. “It’s very rare that I see a new sneaker and get excited,” she says. “I think the sense of surprise, the sense of the unexpected has become so rare because we’ve seen so much in the last few years.”

Releasing a product into the world comes with increased responsibility now that consumers, striving to make more sustainable choices, have begun to examine their consumption habits. Andelman navigates this world with care. Just An Idea works with brands such as Moncler and Sacai to develop “special projects and collaborations that make sense for the brands and their customers”.

Sarah Andelman curated 50 lots from artists around the world to participate in the Pharrell Williams Just Phriends auction. Photo: Grégory Copitet
Sarah Andelman curated 50 lots from artists around the world to participate in the Pharrell Williams Just Phriends auction. Photo: Grégory Copitet

Bare-faced, wearing her signature pixie cut and an oversized black Verdy T-shirt, Andelman seems reserved at first over our video call, but she lights up when I ask about her work. She has been busy. Last year, she curated 50 lots from artists around the world to participate in Pharrell’s Just Phriends auction. Lots ranged from niche items to art; a highlight is a sculpture by Pharrell and Takashi Murakami, titled The simple things (2008-2009), which sold for HKD 21.73 million at Christie’s in Hong Kong in 2019. “I didn’t really know the (house) auction world and the markets,” she says candidly. “I tried to curate artists who worked with Pharrell in the past, who (understood) his history.” Whether it was strategic or pure serendipity, the auction took place in Paris the same week that the American musician debuted his first collection for Louis Vuitton as its men’s creative director.

Sarah Andelman's Mise en Page installation at Paris Le Bon Marché, created with artist Jean Jullien. Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Andelman
Sarah Andelman’s Mise en Page installation at Paris Le Bon Marché, created with artist Jean Jullien. Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Andelman

In February, Parisian retailer Le Bon March invited Andelman to create an installation in the store. The store historically invites guests, usually creatives or artists, to take over the windows and retail space. “The difference (between the other guests and me) is that I never (think of myself) as a creative,” Andelman says. She brought a friend, the artist Jean Jullien, and together they created an exhibition entitled “Mise en Page”, with books as the central theme. A powder blue figure engulfed by the reading tower above the display, with an array of books, Jullien-themed merchandise and homewares. Andelman herself makes several cameos – a cartoon version of her appears during the installation, her head buried in a book.

Today, she is busy curating Art Basel’s first stores. “When Basel came to Paris for the first time (2022), I told Clément Delépine (Director of Art Basel Paris) that we cannot even buy a book in this Art Basel, which is not the case in Switzerland.” says Andelman. “When you think about all the galleries from Perrotin to Gagosian, they opened their stores, so there’s a real space for art publications and books and products that aren’t the original…”, she ends, gesturing to a mock painting on the wall. “But I think they realized that Art Basel has become a brand.” The stores are unique to their premises, inspired by participating galleries and other exhibitions happening around the city.
2017 Anya Hindmarch window at Colette. Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Andelman
2017 Anya Hindmarch window at Colette. Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Andelman

Fresh from the fair in Paris, she goes to Miami in December to finish the year. She bursts out laughing. “Don’t ask me about Hong Kong!”

While we may not see an Andelman special at Art Basel Hong Kong next March, her curatorial prowess can be experienced at Put it together!an interactive installation at Landmark from Thursday until New Year’s Day. Building on the tradition of wrapping presents during the holiday season, Andelman has brought together 10 artists from around the world to create a series of special edition ribbon designs and ornaments. Asian artists Chen Fenwan, Forlee Bean, Kasing Lung and Ribbonesia sit alongside names from further afield, including Nina Chanel Abney, Pieter Ceizer, FriendsWithYou, Gabriela Noelle, Katerina Jebb and André Saraiva (Mr A). Japanese fashion brand Sacai collaborates with chef Richard Ekkebus of Amber on a limited edition cake.